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The Bux Circlip Tool – just this side of magic!

There are a few specialty tools in karting that are a must-have.  They make your karting life so much easier you wonder why it took you so long to buy it in the first place.  This month’s Kart Tool of the Month – the Bux Circlip Tool – ranks highly if not first on this list.  The Bux Circlip Tool takes a job that may be one of the most difficult in karting – installing circlips – and makes it so easy, safe and quick to perform it’s not even funny.  As you will see in the article on rebuilding your own top end earlier this month, installing circlips is not only tricky to perform, but very difficult to describe.  There is a definite technique and art to installing a circlip and it is very difficult to do so without scratching the outside surface of the piston (or the inside for that matter).  Add the constant threat of the circlip springing out of the piston and flying into oblivion never to be seen again and you can see my point.

The Bux Circlip tool eliminates all of the above.  After reading the directions to quickly set the tool up for your piston type*, using the tool is literally this easy:  1.  Place the circlip on the end of the installer (pictured on the left above) making sure the circlip opening is in line with the groove on the installer handle, 2. Place the adapter/sleeve assembly (shown on the right in the picture above) of the installer snugly into the wrist pin bore.  3.  Insert the installer into the sleeve with the groove facing up (12 o’clock position) and slide the installer through the sleeve until the installer bottoms out and snaps the clip into place as shown in this link: http://www.fastech-racing.com/bux-circlip-tool.html.  That is it!  It will literally take you 15 seconds a side to install your circlips with no risk of losing the clip or scratching the piston. The Bux Circlip tool has single-handedly taken one of karting’s most difficult jobs and made it one of the easiest.  At $39.95, you will seriously wonder why you didn’t buy one yesterday!  You can find the Bux Circlip tool at Fastech-Racing. So, go online (http://www.fastech-racing.com/piston-tools/) or call Fastech (888-333-4181) today and save yourself time and aggravation for years to come.


* Tip:  Carefully remove some of your old circlips and use an old piston to set the depth of the adapter/sleeve assembly to your piston type.  Then practice installing an old circlip into the old piston to make sure you have everything set properly.  I found this very helpful.

While FKI is written primarily for the Sprint Kart racer, I know that some of you may also catch the occasional road race.  I will admit that when I first got into karting I swore that I would only kart on kart tracks.  I used to constantly say that “If you want to race on big car tracks, get a big car.”  Then in 2010, the ProKart series stopped at the Streets of Willow, a 1.6 mile road course with over 100 feet of elevation change.  The “Streets” features a 270 degree “Bowl Turn” with 20 degrees of banking (you could watch karts go through there like they were driving on a wall as you approached the turn), two 100 mph straights, a double right hander that perfectly emulated the long, double right hander (Turn 2) at Magny Cours (one of the best corners in all of Europe) and a blind, flat-out 90 mph kink.  Needless to say, I instantly became a huge fan and immediately erased my stupid “big car, big track” saying from my vocabulary.  But the big question I had going into the weekend was – how do I set my kart up for a road race?  Well, luckily one of my friends road races all the time and gave me the perfect (race winning) set-up which I will now impart to you…

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Categories : Chassis Tuning
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There are a couple of areas mechanically when you first get into karting that are fairly intimidating.  The braking system immediately comes to mind as one, the other would be the changing the Top End.  These are two areas where you feel you don’t want to get into the unknown and make a mistake as you definitely don’t EVER want to lose your brakes and you certainly don’t want to accidently do anything to cause your motor to lose power or blow.  Well, luckily changing the Top End, much like rebuilding the braking system, is fairly simple and straightforward.  Once someone walks you through it, it is relatively easy.  So let’s see what’s underneath that cylinder, take away the mystery, and give you the confidence to change your Top End like a pro…

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Categories : Engine Tuning, How To's
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If you have been reading your FKI’s and testing diligently, eventually you will notice certain tuning patterns emerge from your go kart chassis.  Pay attention to these patterns as every go kart has what I will term “tuning relationships” and once you see the pattern, you will dial yourself into any given track condition so much quicker.  Mastering tuning relationships can be the deciding factor between having a top-five go kart or a winning kart.  The quicker you get close to your ideal set-up, the quicker you can experiment with the smaller things to find that last tenth to push you much farther up the grid.  So what exactly am I talking about?  Well let me run you through a couple of examples which should help you determine your kart’s tuning relationships regardless of your chassis type…

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Categories : Chassis Tuning
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When I first started karting, I was presented with one of the best opportunities in my racing career.  Our family friend’s, the Jones (as in Parnelli Jones), had a dilemma on their hands as they had no way to get their youngest son Page (age 15 at the time) to the kart races as his older brother PJ (age 18 at the time) was moving up the ranks to race Midgets.  For those of you unfamiliar with the name, Parnelli Jones won Indy in 1963, could have won it 5 times, and is regarded as one of this country’s best all time drivers.  So, for two summers, I went to California, moved in with the Jones, and literally lived, slept, and ate karting.  In the first summer, Page and I competed in 28 races in 12 weekends.  It was karting heaven!  I was racing in one of karting’s hotbeds and had Parnelli Jones as a mentor.  I mention all the above because the biggest single element that I remember from this experience was Parnelli constantly telling Page and me that you need to be smooth and consistent to be fast.  Period.  He would drill that into our heads every single chance that he had.  Easy enough concept to understand but how do you become smooth and consistent?  Well, there are a number of things that you can do…

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Working the front office at SwedeTech, I receive a lot of phone calls and emails from many individuals.  Some own our engines, some own a SwedeTech accessory, and some just want technical help.

One of the most common questions I receive is, “Can you send me a jet chart?”

My first response is, “Do you own a SwedeTech engine?”

I will ask the customer about the specifications on the engine.  TM, Maxter, Pavesi, CR125, Modified CR125 or Stock CR125.  Blah, blah, blah.

It is very hard for us to supply a generic jet chart without knowing specifics from our customer.  A jet chart is not absolute, it offers a baseline to assist in tuning.  There is no magic jetting that we can just guess at over the phone.  But, there is a definite process you can follow to build your own jet chart…

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Categories : Engine Tuning
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Non-Reservoir go kart brakes are a little bit of an anomaly.  If you come from an automotive or race car background, when it comes to bleeding brakes, you are going to employ some kind of pump-and-hold technique using the brake pedal to pressurize the system while you open and close the caliper bleed screws to release the air bubbles and fill the system with fresh brake fluid.  If you have Non-Reservoir style brakes on your go kart, everything you know about bleeding brakes can be thrown out the window.  So how do you bleed this style of brakes, I’ll show you…

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Categories : How To's
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Why are there circles drawn on this seat? Read on to find out...

If you have been in go karting long enough, you have definitely heard the claim that you need to use the factory seat in order for your go kart chassis to work properly and be at its optimum.  Most likely you will hear this from a kart shop owner which is interesting because there is no extra financial incentive for him to say this since the seat is usually included in the price of the go kart.  The shop owner could actually make a little more money by convincing you to buy an aftermarket seat.  So why do they claim this?  Is it true?  And what if, like me, you don’t fit properly in the factory seat.  Are you giving up time by installing a more comfortable aftermarket seat in your go kart?  Let’s find out…

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Categories : Chassis Tuning
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Sections A, B, and C are all examples of areas where the brake or roll dilema comes into play.

Roll out of the throttle or brake for a corner?  When a FKI subscriber requested that I do an article on this exact subject I got very excited as I think this is one of the quintessential questions in all of karting.  This question becomes even more poignant in faster corners and in mid speed left-to-right technical sections that seem to be prevalent on most go kart tracks.  Luckily, my hometown kart track has both of these types of corners and I have spent many a lap experimenting with the brake or roll concept.  So which is better?  Well, obviously that depends on the corner.  The more important question is: How do you go about determining which is quicker.  That, I can answer

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Last month, I highlighted some of the important areas of the Honda CR125 Stock Moto engine and racing program.  This month I am going to focus on our approach to running the Stock Moto.  Some topics in this article will be specific to SwedeTech Racing, but I will try to make this a broad as possible…

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Categories : Engine Tuning
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