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Archive for Product Reviews

The Bux Circlip Tool – just this side of magic!

There are a few specialty tools in karting that are a must-have.  They make your karting life so much easier you wonder why it took you so long to buy it in the first place.  This month’s Kart Tool of the Month – the Bux Circlip Tool – ranks highly if not first on this list.  The Bux Circlip Tool takes a job that may be one of the most difficult in karting – installing circlips – and makes it so easy, safe and quick to perform it’s not even funny.  As you will see in the article on rebuilding your own top end earlier this month, installing circlips is not only tricky to perform, but very difficult to describe.  There is a definite technique and art to installing a circlip and it is very difficult to do so without scratching the outside surface of the piston (or the inside for that matter).  Add the constant threat of the circlip springing out of the piston and flying into oblivion never to be seen again and you can see my point.

The Bux Circlip tool eliminates all of the above.  After reading the directions to quickly set the tool up for your piston type*, using the tool is literally this easy:  1.  Place the circlip on the end of the installer (pictured on the left above) making sure the circlip opening is in line with the groove on the installer handle, 2. Place the adapter/sleeve assembly (shown on the right in the picture above) of the installer snugly into the wrist pin bore.  3.  Insert the installer into the sleeve with the groove facing up (12 o’clock position) and slide the installer through the sleeve until the installer bottoms out and snaps the clip into place as shown in this link: http://www.fastech-racing.com/bux-circlip-tool.html.  That is it!  It will literally take you 15 seconds a side to install your circlips with no risk of losing the clip or scratching the piston. The Bux Circlip tool has single-handedly taken one of karting’s most difficult jobs and made it one of the easiest.  At $39.95, you will seriously wonder why you didn’t buy one yesterday!  You can find the Bux Circlip tool at Fastech-Racing. So, go online (http://www.fastech-racing.com/piston-tools/) or call Fastech (888-333-4181) today and save yourself time and aggravation for years to come.

* Tip:  Carefully remove some of your old circlips and use an old piston to set the depth of the adapter/sleeve assembly to your piston type.  Then practice installing an old circlip into the old piston to make sure you have everything set properly.  I found this very helpful.

Prospeed Components’ Perimeter Throttle Kit should be standard equipment on all karts. It’s that good.  (Click on picture to enlarge)

Ever look at your kart and wonder why the throttle cable adjustment is so far away from the throttle pedal?  Ever think to yourself that as beautifully engineered as your kart is why does the throttle cable look like an after-thought that has never been addressed since the first kart was invented in 1959.  Well, luckily for us Roger Hargens of Prospeed Components did and has come up with the best throttle cable routing system I have ever seen.  Not only is it beautifully engineered, it is 100% functional in its purpose, completely eliminating the trailing throttle understeer caused by most kart’s current throttle cable set-up.  The system is so cool, almost everyone that has seen it on my kart has vowed to get one.  Once installed, it looks like a factory part worthy of its place with the rest of your kart’s components…

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Kart Master's seat struts are slotted to accomodate quicker ride height changes and greater flexibility in mounting. At $19.99 and stainless steel to boot, one of the more clever ideas in karting. (www.kart-master.com)

A seat strut is just a seat strut, right?  You measure how long a strut you need, bend the ends a bit to fit the chassis and seat, drill the seat holes, bolt it in and go.  Pretty simple…

Well, no, not necessarily.  How many times have you tried to fit a seat strut to a hole in your old seat only to realize that it is close but you have to try to slot one of the holes with your drill to make it work.  Or, you go to make a rear ride height change and your struts no longer fit in their original seat holes so you have to move them and drill yet another hole in the side of your seat.  Either situation is far from ideal, time consuming, and generally a pain in the ass, especially if you are rushing to get back on the track by the next practice session to try your ride height change.

Enter Kart Master and their full line of slotted seat struts.  This is one of the more clever ideas I’ve seen in karting making what appears to be a simple part even better.  Kart Master’s slotted seat struts allow you to have some adjustment in your seat struts.  Now when you go to make rear ride height changes, you simply loosen your seat struts, make the ride height change, and then re-tighten the struts.  This saves a ton of time and aggravation and actually makes it possible to honestly back-to-back a rear ride height change.  If you are mounting a Kart Master strut to you existing seat, the slotted ends give you a greater chance of using a preexisting hole.  Either way, they are really cool.

To take advantage of the strut’s adjustability…

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April Prep Tip – EZ Clip

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SwedeTech's E-Z Clip makes changing drive gears a breeze.

I’ll be honest with you, I was not happy about having to switch from the ICC powered G1 class to the Stock Honda Powered S4 class.  The ICC engine is the pinnacle of Shifter Karting with its fantastically vicious power delivery and beautiful high revving engine note.  In addition, it was very accessible and easy to work on, particularly when you are going to change the drive gear.  Remove the chain, undo a circlip, pull the gear off and your are half way there in about a minute.

The Honda, on the other hand, is a little more cumbersome.  You have to have someone hold the rear wheels while you struggle to put a 12mm socket in the small space between the gear and your seat.  Once the bolt is loosened (usually with a great deal of physical effort), now you can take off the chain, cram your hand in between the seat and engine, unscrew the bolt and finally pull the gear off…..until now…

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