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FKI Bonus Article – Sick Seat Struts

Kart Master's seat struts are slotted to accomodate quicker ride height changes and greater flexibility in mounting. At $19.99 and stainless steel to boot, one of the more clever ideas in karting. (www.kart-master.com)

A seat strut is just a seat strut, right?  You measure how long a strut you need, bend the ends a bit to fit the chassis and seat, drill the seat holes, bolt it in and go.  Pretty simple…

Well, no, not necessarily.  How many times have you tried to fit a seat strut to hole in your old seat only to realize that it is close but you have to try to slot one of the holes with your drill to make it work.  Or, you go to make a rear ride height change and your struts no longer fit in their original seat holes so you have to move them and drill yet another hole in the side of your seat.  Either situation is far from ideal, time consuming, and generally a pain in the ass, especially if you are rushing to get back on the track by the next practice session to try your ride height change.

Enter Kart Master and their full line of slotted seat struts.  This is one of the more clever ideas I’ve seen in karting making what appears to be a simple part even better.  Kart Master’s slotted seat struts allow you to have some adjustment in your seat struts.  Now when you go to make rear ride height changes, you simply loosen your seat struts, make the ride height change, and then re-tighten the struts.  This saves a ton of time and aggravation and actually makes it possible to honestly back-to-back a rear ride height change.  If you are mounting a Kart Master strut to you existing seat, the slotted ends give you a greater chance of using a preexisting hole.  Either way, they are really cool.

Mid axle seat bolt position.

To take advantage of the strut’s adjustability, be sure to drill the seat hole in the appropriate position.  For instance, if your kart’s axle is in the mid position, drill the seat bolt hole so that the bolt is in the middle of the slot as shown to the right.  This will allow adjustment both ways so you can move the axle either up or down without having to re-drill the seat.  If your kart’s axle is all the way up in the chassis, drill the hole so the seat bolt is at the very top of the slot as shown below left as this will give you full adjustment to either run the axle in the mid or full down position.  If your kart’s axle is all the way down in the chassis, you will drill the seat hole so the bolt is at the very bottom of the slot as shown below right.  This will give you full adjustment to raise the chassis if needed.

Place the seat bolt at the top of the slot if your kart's axle is in the full up position.

Place the seat bolt at the bottom of the slot if your kart's axle is in the full down position.

The other cool thing – all Kart Master struts are stainless steel for longer life and no rust and come in straight as well as pre-bent sizes (listed below).  They are only $19.99, which is a bargain, especially as you could go through $20 in drill bits trying to slot the struts yourself (as I have done in the past)!  To help mount your new struts, I also highly recommend Kart Master’s Self Centering Washer Sets ($4.99 per set shown to the left) as they are the perfect solution to eliminate any  bind and torsional stress caused by mis-alingnment between the seat surface and the strut face.  If you are constantly cracking your seat struts, this is the most likely culprit.

For more information on all Kart Master products check with your local kart shop or check them out online at http://www.kart-master.com, you will be glad you did!

Straight Lengths: 230mm,  260mm,  280mm,  300mm, 320mm,  360mm, 380mm, 400mm

Single Bend Lengths: 315mm,  350mm,  390mm

Multi Bends: 17RFR-Style  17RR-Style  15RR-Style